What is unfaced insulation? You probably have this question asked to you by your contractor, and you are dumbstruck. You aren’t alone. Many homeowners don’t understand what’s happening to their houses or what kind of construction they are having.
You want to insulate your house, but you have never thought that it can be a bit puzzling, and there are so many details about it. Read on, so you know which one to install and what kind of decision you can make.
What Is Unfaced Insulation? Understanding the Concept
The difference between the faced and unfaced insulation lies only in the vapour retarder. The unfaced insulation refers to the insulation that doesn’t have any vapour retarder, which is plastic or paper facing.
The faced insulation, as you can guess, has its paper vapour retarder, which can help to prevent mildew and mold. The faced insulation must be installed on attic ceilings, exterior basement walls, and exterior walls. You need to press the product to the (wall) cavity with the retarder facing outward (toward you).
It should fit snuggly into the cavity but not be compressed. If you need extra support, feel free to use a staple gun to keep the insulation intact. It’s imperative to check the building codes for the vapour retarder requirements when you have this installation job.
When to Use Unfaced Insulation
This kind of insulation would be perfect for new construction, including ceilings, walls, crawlspaces, remodelling, basements, and attics. This would be an ideal option for an interior application that doesn’t face the outside part. It’s also great for rooms that don’t require moisture control, such as dining rooms, study rooms, and living rooms.
This should be snug and fit into the intended space, but you shouldn’t compress it – just like the unfaced type. This unfaced insulation must be cut perfectly. Always. Use the utility knife to do so. You shouldn’t fold it over if you want it last.
How to Install Unfaced Insulation
How to do the installation on the wall?
- Place the unfaced insulation between (or across) the ceiling or wall. Put this insulation on the top part of the already existing material. Press it into the joists firmly, but you don’t want to compress the material beneath (such as the fiberglass), which can reduce the efficiency.
- Fasten the batts loosely with the plastic straps so they won’t shift too much.
- Cut the batts with the utility knife so it would fit just nicely. Don’t fold them over.
- Make sure that you nail the unfaced (rigid) insulation within the exterior walls. You should nail the foam boards to the wall sheathing. Use a 3/8-inch galvanized nail head. Drive those nails to the wall studs within each 16 (or 18) inches in a vertical manner.
- You may want to cover the unfaced (foam) panels with the usual (waterproof) house wrap after you finish the insulation.
If you want to install it on the floor, you need to do these things:
- Push the unfaced part against the (floor) base, which is usually located between the joists under the floor (in the crawl spaces).
- You can use the batts sized for joists spacing. This would make sure that there are no air gaps. Let the friction stay in place. Use fiberglass screening or chicken wire to nail it.
You may think that all of these steps are complicated and difficult. But once you do everything, you’ll find out that it’s not as difficult as you think. But if you are overwhelmed with the entire process, you can always turn to professional service and hire them to do the work.